Mashoko: Uye munokosha zvikuru kutambudzika, kuziva saka zvishoma ... Kana vakati rudo-mukomana wakati asvika pakuguma arufabheti ... "The Pickwick Papers" by Charles

Tinoziva chii chinodiwa kuti uzere care - shambuu nebharisamu. Nhasi tichataura chete shambuu. The kukurukura achava refu uye kwete zvikuru kunyange hakunakidzi, asi pashure vaviri nyaya uchakwanisa kunzwisisa shambuu nziyo, pane kuverenga zvokushambadzira masirogani.

Zvaiitika

Munguva dzekare kugeza bvudzi vakawanda uye zvikurukuru vaishandisa zai mondo uye mukaka yakashapa yakasanganiswa nevhu. Asi zvikuru mukurumbira shambuu kumumvuri akanga zvichida dota - zvisaririra of combustion zvigadzirwa vari yakavhenganiswa nemvura kuwana igadzikane zvikuru alkaline achipupuma furo gobvu. Pakati pezana remakore rechi19 zviri maindasitiri kugadzirwa sipo yakasimba, anokwanisa Kuparadzwa ari mafuta dzemhuka muriwo mavambo. Izvi yakakurumbira dhishi sipo, iro rave zvinobudirira kushandiswa kwete bedzi vanambuya vedu, asi vamwe vakararama panguva yake. Ndiri akapikisa zvakasimba - nokuti sipo pasi pokudzora mvura Anoumba insoluble yeimwe (pamwe zvakaoma munyu), izvo rakachengetedzwa pamusoro vhudzi, pova chena Dombo uye clogging ari pores ari ganda romusoro (izvo kunowanzokonzera kumbodzika reversible alopecia).

In gumi remakore rechi20 rokutanga, nemhaka kambani Schwarzkopf akazviratidza mari chaiwo okutanga yokugeza bvudzi. Shambuu senguva dzose ikoko kwatiri vose zvakafanana murabhoritari Schwarzkopf muna 1933 uye vave ndaviga muchiroto ipapo mufashoni vakadzi pose. Pane kunyange yezvechitendero maererano izvo zvinogona vakakavadzana kuti imwe zvinokonzera kuti chibvumirano putsi Germany uye Soviet Union yakanga chido kuti chedu indasitiri ipapo zvizorwa (kureva fekitari Freedom, uya kuchiripo muMoscow), iyo nzira yacho German chishamiso shampoos. Handizivi kuti zvechokwadi ichi, asi chero zvazvingava, reRussia shambuu wokutanga akazviratidza chete mukutanga 60s remakore rechi20. Chaiva kwete chete kwakajairika detergency vavaki (alkyl), asi glycerin emollient. Zvisinei, pasinei neizvi, shampoos zvaiva zvakadaro "nesimba" (ph = 7-8), tinogona enzanisa navo kunze kuti, pamwe ano shambuu yakadzika okuchenesa. Mumakore 70 remakore rechi20 kambani "Procter & Gamble" yakatanga chakaunzwa murwiyo pakati shampoos okutarisira nevasori (cationic zvinoriumba) kuti vawedzera shampoos softness uye kunyange vamwe kukwanisa Condition bvudzi.

shampoos ano

Kusvika panguva shambuu kubva nguva utsanana ava anenge "tsika", sezvo rine hanya munyoro wozviita kuti ganda, kuvapo rudo zvivako siyana bvudzi, kazhinji pamwe kuchirapa uye prophylactic zvainoita ganda, uye dzimwe nguva kunyange anoita somunhu mhando aromatherapy, Vongai kuti inofadza munhuhwi. Ndokusaka, shambuu ndeimwe anowanzodanwa kushandiswa zvizorwa zvigadzirwa inosangana-soro zvinodiwa, izvo munyaya ino, ndichaita funga chete detergents uye kuti Ganda zvivako se kurukurai "zvokunze chigadzirwa chitarisiko," "mufananidzo" wake kushambadza musika kwandiri zvikuru dzinonakidza.

Mazuva cosmetology rekushandisa panoti uhwu ano shambuu varidzi:

- akanaka kuchenesa kushanda (Chokwadi, ichi ndicho kwayo chikuru basa); achipa akapfuma furo mumvura chipi pokuoma (ndiko kwakakosha munyika yedu yakakura);

- zvakanaka richiparadzirwa pamusoro bvudzi (ichi zvakakosha kubva pfungwa nemaonero profitability, nekuti pachivanze achiri "dambudziko");

- nyore kugeza (ichi zvakare chiratidzo "kunyatsoshanda", sezvo ruzhinji vanhu atoisa counter pamusoro mvura, kunze kwezvinhu shambuu flakes kunonaya zviri sezvisingaiti munhu achaparadzwa yakashongedzwa);

- asingachengeti kutsvinyira ganda romusoro (kusimba chaiwo pfuma mukati wakawedzera allergenicity womunhu ano);

- kupa kutonhodza Chaizvoizvo, kuti zviri nyore kuti kuzora mafuta (tsime, ichi ini vakati, nekuti kwangu, ndiye basa balms);

- kupa bvudzi chipenye uye utano chitarisiko (zvakanaka, Chokwadi, kunyanya kana paine maonero ane Mutengi pfungwa se "wakachena");

- vane mukana pasuru uye anokwezva chitarisiko.

Recently shambuu vakatanga kuwedzera mavara yakaturikwa nezvimedu - microspheres ane chirungiso mugumisiro rakasikwa matema kana confetti. Kuwedzera dzinonakidza kuona Vakatosarudza nechokwadi kuchengeteka Mishonga zvokuwedzera. Zvisinei, pasinei anokwezva waiva shambuu chitarisiko, chokwadi uye kukwezva kwayo nevatengi zvivako zvinogona kuongororwa chete pashure kushandiswa.

Basa remvura shambuu

Huwandu mvura iri shambuu anogona kusvika 80%, mvura iyi inofanira kuva achinyanya microbiologically wakachena (kuti shambuu hauzoti "nemadzinza" bacteria). Zvakafanira kuti pakanga pasina pokuoma munyu (simbi, calcium, magnesium), izvo kuderedza anopupuma uye kazhinji unowira sezvo asina precipitate inofadza. Kuti neutralize dzakawanda munyu idzi vakawedzera vanonzi chelates (kazhinji ndiye Trilon B).

Nhasi zviri mufashoni kutaura mvura shampoos kuti ne infusions kana decoctions wemiriwo. Handina chokwadi kuti zvinobvira zvechokwadi sezvo mishonga atakatora ndiyo yakanaka mamiriro ezvinhu kwete chete nokuda pakurapa dzakasiyana-siyana dermatitis, asiwo kukura zvemarudzi ose zvinenge, ramakagadzwa hakuna ari "kodzero". Asi ... Tichiri anogona chete kudavira zvavanotaura mu zvokushambadza.  

The rokuchenesa fuma

Pasinei zvakadaro chihombe% mvura tigutsikane ichiri hwaro upi sipo mumwe sipo fuma. Nokuti chikuru basa iri shambuu kubvisa tsvina, ndiko - kugeza! Hwaro sipo zvinhu zviri surfactants mu shampoos - surfactants.

Surfactant ehupfumi: 1. kuderedza pemvura kunetsana pakati mvura uye mafuta nezvimedu, kufambisa kubviswa nezvimedu izvi uye tsvina; 2. vanoumba furo (kare zvakanzi kutendwa - zvikuru ari furo, nani kuchenesa Zvino mashoko aya pamusoro zvikuru zvechokwadi.); 3. Kuti aumbe kuturika pakati tudonhwe tsvina iri furo uye kudzivisa apiwa nyaya tsvina pamusoro bvudzi (ichi zvinokosha, zvimwe pane Washing taizova kurwadziswa Sisyphean basa); 4. zvinhu asara kudzikamiswa shambuu kana kuramba navo kudaro Condition; 5. kuwedzera viscosity pamusoro shampoos; 6. kupa bvudzi softness.

Muzvitsaurirei detergency kunyanya anionic surfactants, ivo mamorekuru iyo ane mugove liposoluble (hydrophobic) uye mvura soluble (hydrophilic) chikamu. In aqueous mhinduro, kuti mamorekuru anoora yokuumba nhingi mhosva ions. The mafuta-soluble chikamu Morekuru anosunga uye nguvo zvacho tsvina secretion pakati sebaceous mumasero. Mvura soluble chikamu Morekuru nezvatinovavarira kubva bvudzi, iyo anotakura kunaka vebasa (sezvo kuziva chete mhosva dzinga mumwe), mauri tudonhwe tsvina, nechokuita surfactants, bvudzi arambwa, ipapo zvazvichanyungudutswa mvura hwabviswa nayo. zvinoriumba aya uyewo haana Kazhinji vachinzi detergents uye surfactants. Saponifier detergents riri rwokuzvarwa mavambo, surfactants - chakaita zvokugadzirwa zvigadzirwa. Aiwanzoshandisa detergents akawanda vari shambuu: yavaibvisa laureth sulfate (anowanzodanwa kushandiswa), munyu pamusoro alkyl Eteri sulfates (sodium lauryl magnesium, zvishoma Ammonium), laureth magnesium sulfate (manyoro asi anodhura) saktisulfosuktsinaty (zvinyoronyoro surfactants pachishandiswa succinic acid) acyl peptides (the condensation zvinobikwa puroteni hydrolyzate uye mafuta womukokonati).

Rinoshandiswawo cationic surfactants chaizvo chaizvo. Vane kumbonyanya munyoro sipo Chaizvoizvo, asi ivo vari zvakanaka "kukwezva" uye okusafarira mhosva bvudzi uye kuita Kuda kutamba pamusoro Mishonga zvokuwedzera pamusoro bvudzi: cationic Polymers, quaternized mapuroteni hydrolysates, chirimwa polysaccharides.

Amphoteric surfactants - akabatana anionic surfactants kuwedzera harmlessness pamusoro shambuu Formulations, uye akabatana cationic chiwedzere Migumisiro yakanaka silicones uye yokuvirisa kuti Ganda pamusoro neganda romusoro: alkilamidopropil betaines cocoamphoacetate.

Kutaura zvazviri, kutaura pamusoro surfactant kunogona kuva refu kwazvo nguva (chokwadi pane zvakawanda dzisiri Ionic, kriptoaninovye surfactants uye kunyange Sopa, izvo zvinoita kuti kusika kupfuura mwero Masvomhu), asi ndinotenda kuti izvi zvinogona kupera, sezvo zvino kutanga zvikuru kunzwisisa namakemikari kwatiri subtleties.

aesthetic yokuvirisa

Opacifiers: zvakagadzirirwa masiki heterogeneity yacho chigadzirwa kana yayo kwete akanaka ruvara, iro anobvumira chepakarepo havashanduki Pfungwa, kuvandudza ayo nevatengi ehupfumi. Mushure Kuwedzera opacifiers, shambuu anova akafanana mafuta kana mondo, pane kwakajairika detergents (mhuri mhando). Mishonga opacifiers vari aqueous polymer nookuparadzirwa.

Dhayi: akatanga kuti masiki maketeni ndisingadiwi. Vanofanira kuva vakachengeteka nokuti vatengi, photostable uye regai anoora pane ose zvinokonzerwa (kudziyisa, kuoma nechando, etc.). Munyika dzakawanda yaidzorwa kushandiswa madhayi. In zvachose pane dzakawanda pamutemo hurongwa - the US, European uye Japanese. Vagadziri Russian vanoomerera European mutemo madhayi. Uye vakawanda - musoro sooo asiri nyore uye nani hakunakidzi, ichi - zvose.

Munhuwi: kunze chokwadi kuti "yakashongedzwa" chigadzirwa, zvichiita anokwezva kuti mutengi, zvinonhuhwira, kusanganisira munhuwi mbishi matehwe. Saka - iwe nezvazvo. Kana chinonhuwira simba rinokunda ikoko, hazvirevi iri kuti mbishi zvinhu hazvisi yakakwirira chaizvo unhu ... Mafuta zvinofanira kunoenderana nevamwe shambuu fillers uye kwete hupere pamusoro nguva (zvinonzi aidavira kuti kunofanira kuchengetwa kanenge 3 months). Scheme Tipei kwakanaka shambuu kwakaoma chaizvo uye zvinonzwisa tsitsi, pamwe preservatives uye colorants vanogona kukonzera neutachiona kuti sipo. Pane chakajairika European rinoratidza, iyo inorondedzera 26 allergens huru, izvo zvinogona ubatanidzwe zvinonhuhwira asi nokuda kuchengeteka zvikonzero zvinofanira kunodiwa kuratidza pamusoro Chikwata, kunyanya kana nhamba yavo akapfuudza muganhu.

dzichipfekeka yokuvirisa

Preservatives: muri zvinhu kuti vawedzera zvizoro kumisa kukura kana kuuraya tupukanana tusingaoneki, sezvo zvizoro vanoumba rakaisvonaka zvakatipoteredza kukura uye kubereka zvigare. Izvi zvine ngozi zvikuru, nekuti tusingaoneki vasiri chete zvinoshatisa kunaka chigadzirwa, asi zvibereko muchetura (chepfu rwokuzvarwa kupi), izvo kunyange kungakonzera pave anogumbura uye neutachiona. Naizvozvo, kubva microbiological kuchena zvikuru kuvimba kwete chete pane mutengi ehupfumi zvibereko, asi kushanda zvakanaka kwayo uye, ndingadai kunyange kutaura - kuchengeteka. Pakusarudza zvisaora akaita somunhu mumwe chinhu. Hazvina basa rakanaka zvakaoma, sezvo zvakafanira kufunga; efficacy pamusoro chakarondedzera zvigare; zvisaora kugarisana zvose zvokubikisa ose shambuu; pasi toxicity; tembiricha utsigo; nokugarika navanopinda ph siyana.

Basic preservatives akashandiswa: benzoic asidhi nomukaka, parabens siyana, metilhloroizotiazolinon uye methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, propylene glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben uye zvakafanana.

Thickeners (viscosity regulators) vari kuwedzera shampoos kupa achida kusachinja-chinja. Dzakakodzera thickeners vari anowanzodanwa kushandiswa muronga Polymers vari polyvinylpyrrolidone uye copolymers ose acrylates. Uyewo thickeners anogona kuita basa glyceryl esters ose mafuta acids uye polysaccharides zvirimwa mavambo.

Solubilizing yomuchipatara: chaiwo yomuchipatara kuti vawedzere solubility kuti taita soluble ingredients. siyana ethoxylated zvigadzirwa anoshandiswa unowanzosangana. Solubilizers raiwanzoshandiswa solubilize zvinonhuhwira. Vamwe zvokuwedzera asati sumo kupinda sipo uyewo ichiputswa ari solubilizers (semuenzaniso, jojoba mafuta, gorosi utachiona mafuta, mafuta-soluble mavhitaminzi).

Ph regulators nokuti kururamiswa, saka zvaizivikanwa kwatiri rehydrogen indekisi, wedzera zvinyoronyoro acids (cucumber, lactic, phosphoric) kana alkali (sodium hydroxide, mono- kana triethanolamine). The ph of shambuu iri kusimba kukosha, nokuti unofanira kuva akadai kuitira kubudirira yenhengo zvose zvinosanganisirwa kwaro sezvamunoita. Kazhinji, zvinofungidzirwa kuti ndiro ph kunotema ukuru ganda kutsamwa kana uchishandisa sipo. Asi dermatologists tenda ichi vanoti rakanyatsojeka pamakakatanwa, sezvo vaongorori vakawanda simbisa kuti ganda ane akanaka buffer ehupfumi (kukwanisa nokururamisira zvakaoma kudzora nokufamba mukati ph tsika, kureva kudzikamisa ph). Chinhu bedzi anogona kuita kuti kwakaderera ari buffering hurongwa - shambuu dzakaipa akabvisa kubva bvudzi uye ganda, asi ipapo dzishande kushanda kwete chete uye kwete zvaitova ph regulators.

kutonhodza yokuvirisa

Zvarakanyorerwa: achibvisa kunofambira mberi magetsi (I rimwe zuva akasangana izwi - "Hair rutapudzo razletaemosti"); rimire nzvimbo cuticle (porosity rimire) wakaremara; pakugonesa nyore combing bvudzi (zvose nyoro uye akaoma); achipa bvudzi chipenye silkiness; Kupa kuchengeteka chafariz; hydration nokudya kunovaka muviri nemvere; kuwedzera bvudzi vhoriyamu.

The mashandiro chiito mhepo conditioners: zvazviri chaizvo chinoitika banal Magnet "+" mhosva mamorekuru conditioners kuti "-" mhosva bvudzi pemvura. Zvisinei, kuwedzera kune magineti, muchiitiko ichi, pane zvakawanda mhepo conditioner uye kubatanidzwa Morekuru pamwe puroteni bvudzi. pfuma iyi inonzi - substantivity, rutendo kwaari mhepo conditioners kwete chete wakaiswa pamusoro pechiso bvudzi, asi uyewo kuramba kubatsira pomutumwa. Zvinofungidzirwa kuti ukama zvikamu bvudzi vane guru kunaka mutariri uye, saka, ivo akanyorwa zvinopfuura "+" mhosva (cationic) pamusoro nezvimedu, kuti ndiye - the zvizorwa mugumisiro kunosimudzirwa. Kutaura zvazviri, izvi ndizvo vazhinji muchiso Positioning se "akachenjera kutarisirwa '.

Pakati zhinji zvakanakira mumhepo conditioner, rinosimbisa kukwanisa kupa bvudzi wenyu kusimba akanaka uye yakakwirira Gloss. Izvi zvinoitwa mukati kuti mumhepo kutonhodza "chingamu kumusoro" bvudzi cuticle, zvichiita pemvura zvikuru kumeso (mufananidzo bvudzi dzinosiyana kufungisisa zvikuru), nokudaro dzekugonesa, ruvara zvakanyanya uye dzinongoitika Gloss.

Ikoko, vari Zvisinei, kwete unofadza zvikuru divi migumisiro izvi zvinoshamisa cationic conditioners. Kakawanda shampoos (kunyanya kukuvaradzwa chaizvo uye bleached bvudzi) rakanyatsojeka kunorema bvudzi, achibvisa vhoriyamu zvikuru. On ichi kuti pave shambuu, mabikirwo zvakakodzera zvinoenderana nepakati pakati kuchenesa uye kutonhodza zvinhu. Izvi zvinokosha nokuti kunyanya kuwedzera kutonhodza yokuvirisa emunhu zvikuru rinsability uye kuchenesa shambuu. Zvikuru ndiye anosarudza dzedenga conditioner. Somuenzaniso, kupfuura simba uye inobudirira mhepo kutonhodza munhu mafuta silicone, riri chaizvo rinoungana bvudzi (kuyeuka ichi incredible akaoma musoro mupfungwa uye ndangariro dzedu nemakasitoma). Naizvozvo, nenyanzvi ano vanosarudza kushandisa chiedza (kugadzikana) silicones.

Zvakakosha kuyeuka kuti pasinei simba uye regenerating kwakanga kusina sipo, kutonhodza kuvapo yokuvirisa hakurevi haabatanidzi kudikanwa kushandisa nebharisami. Izvi zvinonyanya kukosha kukuvaradzwa, bleached rakamonana bvudzi, uyewo refu bvudzi shaded kumugumo. Yeuka kuti nzvimbo dzaparadzwa ane hombe pasi ine kunaka nokuchengeta, uye zvinoitwa rokuti cationic hadzisi kukwana.

Silicones: kupa bvudzi softness, chipenye silkiness, kuderedza kunofambira mberi nokuchengeta, aivabatsira combing nyoro uye yakaoma bvudzi, tichidzivisa kwokuvadza pavo (ndinoiitawo ivo kuderedza stickiness mari kuti masonry). Silicones anokwanisa micheto yekapepa katsva aka cuticle nokuita rutapudzo chaitika. Mukuwedzera, ivo kusika firimu pemvura vhudzi, kudzivirira bvudzi kubva utsinye kwezvakatipoteredza uye kuva chafariz kudzivirira zvivako.

Mhando silicones nezvazvinoreva ezvinhu bvudzi: 1. dimethicone - silicone anonhuwirira. Ivai akazivisa regenerating matanho, izvozvo anosika zvinoshamisa uye akanyarara kubwinya, combing uye Kugadzira nyore kuti vaumbe Heat unodzivirira firimu. Anogona kuyera pasi bvudzi rako. 2. polioldimetikony (copolymers) - mvura soluble silicones. Iva pfuma zvinyoronyoro kuti uendese chigadzirwa kubudikidza bvudzi kuvandudza Kugadzira. 3. aminofunctional silicones (amodimethicone) - nhaka kutonhodza uye marara zvivako, zvakakwana ane ruvara zvemachira bvudzi. 4. Encapsulation pamusoro silicones - kupa mamwe kutonhodza uye kunonatsiridza bvudzi Kugadzira; 5. dimethicone laurate succinoglycan - aqueous silicone emmulsiya vysokomolekulchrnogo - ane rokuzvivandudza rakaita kuti irambe uye rokuzvivandudza rakaita kuti irambe ichishanda, anopa silky, glues akatsemura bvudzi rinoguma.

Heunoi iye - ABC kutarisirwa.