Fashion mugadziri Pol Puare: Biography uye pikicha

A kupenya, anoshamisa murume Pol Puare zvakarurama akawana musoro naMambo muParis fashoni. Ndiye haisiri yangu kuzvininipisa Kuzivikanwa (ndiro tarenda mukuru forgivable) "vakapfeka nguva", yakanaka kwazvo uye vakakurumbira vakadzi nguva. Pakati nemakasitoma ake - vose European, kusanganisira Russian vakakwirira, uyewo vanhu okusika. vaairarama vaiva Koko Shanel, Zhak Duse, Charlz Uort, NP Lamanova uye zvichingodaro. D.

Pol Puare, Biography: makore okutanga

Next huru fashoni mugadziri uyo akaberekwa muna Paris pamusoro Textiles mutengesi mhuri. About sei ake muduku zvakanga zvakaoma kutaura, nekuti hapana hwakavimbika mashoko. Mubhuku rake oupenyu kubudikidza Poiret kuwedzera chinotarisa madhirezi, yokunyora nokudhirowa neheti, izvo kare panguva iyoyo yaigarwa pfungwa dzake uye fungidziro. Kubva muduku iye kroil uye vakasonanidza dzavo nehanzvadzi dzavo. Kunyange ipapo, tarenda mukomana wacho akaita nzira yake kunze uye aida kuzivikanwa.

Pol Puare akakura nehanzvadzi nhatu, mumwe (Nicole Grult) vakazoroorwa vakashanda kusika madhirezi uye kunyange aiva mufashoni imba yayo muParis. Zvisinei, The wechipiri akawana mukurumbira, atova anoshamisa shlyapnitsy. Pasinei pachena unokwezva mwanakomana fashoni uye zvose zvine chokuita nacho, baba vangu havana kuda kuita zvokutamba naro, saka akaramba kuti mukomana akadzidza kwete kuchikoro. Pashure wake kudzidza, akamupa basa mutumwa kubva yakakurumbira vanatenzi kuti pagadzirwe amburera. Asi nokukurumidza, Pol Puare (ona mufananidzo. Below) akasiya wekishopu. Kutora cheka ose esiriki rejira, zvakava zvavo wokutanga kusona mbatya nezvidhori, akapa nokuda nehanzvadzi kamwe.

The kutanga okusika nzira

basa tenzi wavo ramangwana kwazvo vakatanga kushanda panguva akakurumbira French fashoni wakachenjera uye ipapo muteresi Jacques Doucet aiva Studio naCharles Worth, apo iye ainyanya mubasa akagadzira uye kusona dzokunze zvipfeko (majasi, capes). Uye kare muna 1903, Pol Puare isingachinji fashoni imba yake. Kubudirira yakanga hunoshamisa zvechokwadi uye mheni, zvikurukuru nokuda kare vawana kubatana uye kukurumbira pakati nemakasitoma vanokudzwa, vakakwirira.

Aishingaira kutsigira adzokera fashoni dzekare, uye sezvaari mapfekero ave nguo uye peplos, uye zvinganaka mutsva Parisian sezvo isu aiti nhasi, zvinenge - the kimono.

domesticity

Pol Puare - fashion hunhu mupfungwa, inopenya uye addicting hunhu. Aisagona kurarama pasina neMuse. Zvakava Deniza teekannu, waakawana muna 1909. Sezvo aibvuma nokuda tenzi, iye ndiye pachake zvinangwa zvose. Charming mukadzi kubva mumatunhu zvakashamisa vagari uye inopenya, yakasiyana uye nemasango zvokupfeka zvakasikwa kunyanya kwake, yakaratidza runako. Mumwe nomumwe bhuku yakashandurwa kuva chiitiko, kutekenyedzwa. Murume nomudzimai vachikurukura vezvenhau uye nzanga. Zvirokwazvo chipo muupenyu hwavo kuedza zvinotyisa veruzhinji, richisvika dzimwe nguva kutosvika kwamakuhwa. Zvaive munguva pfupi iri nguva Pol Puare (ona nemapfekero. Mufananidzo) anowana mukurumbira sendarama inozvikudza fashoni vagadziri zvenyika, zviri tichienzanisa the artist, musiki, uye nhau vachidururira, sokunge kubva ari cornucopia.

The nemudzimai uye akava nomukurumbira sezvo varongi une bato chikuru dzaiimba rimwe gore. Mumwe zororo rine dingindira raro, asi kunonyanya inozivikanwa manheru "1002 fung Night", rakaitwa muna 1911.

Zvinosuruvarisa, kwete nyaya dzose dzakanaka zvakakodzera kuenderera uye kupera. The Vaviri vakarambwa muna 1928, apo mari zvakanaka kuva Poiret akatanga kusviba. Ndechipi chikonzero chaicho kuparadzana bapiro pashure pemakore akawanda kudaro, vanoti hapana anogona. Zvisinei, mupepanhau yebasa Denise vakamupomera utsinye uye Poiret, akavapindurawo, inonzi kunogumbura wake maitiro.

Madzinza vavariro nemabasa

Muna 1910, pashure kushanyira "Scheherazade" kutamba muParis, Pol Puare akaororwa zvokuti ndakanga ndisingagoni kurega runako uye chakavanzika East. Kokutanga muupenyu akaunganidzwa dzacho yokutevedzera pamwe dzemadzinza motifs, uye gore gare gare kunyange akaronga une dingindira bato "Chiuru usiku yechipiri." Couturier akazviratidza ari muchimiro vane simba Sultan. Mushure yakadaro guru chiitiko vokumabvazuva motifs nenguvo kwenguva akagarwa socialites. Wide mudhebhe uye siketi, Anosuwa, ngowani - ichi zvose rava chinhu zvekumwe hembe kuti usiku kunze.

Russian werudzii nemabasa fashoni vagadziri

Kokutanga matarenda Russian Poiret vakasangana pakushanyira kutamba, iyo vakatora yose Europe. Nokukwezvwa mavambo uye flair, akasarudza kuenda kushanyira Eastern Europe, kusanganisira Moscow uye St. Petersburg. The couturiers nomukurumbira kusvika rinofadza wakakwana kubva Russian zvavo koshitomu (akasvibirira sundresses, kichek, blouses, corbel, Scarves uye zvameso). Iye kunyange akauya nechimwe mari mbatya nemi guru fashoni. , Maruva Juicy dzakanaka uye zvishongo - zvose izvi Pol Puare (nemapfekero kuratidzwa mufananidzo) rakashandiswa kusika nyika muunganidzwa mbatya motifs Russian rokutanga. iye "Kazan" akanzi.

By jasi Paul Poiret kwakaita

In yayo chizvarwa chimiro pasi maatomu akafanana izvi dzinozivikanwa Russian murimi mudiki koshitomu kunzwisisa jasi pamwe yakarurama maoko uye shure, neotreznoy muchiuno mutsetse. Paul Poiret kwakaita jasi - a stylized, muchinjikwa chokuita kekutanga kuti mudzimai wangu Denise sutu. Nokuti iye, shandisa rima rejira dzakaisvonaka, kusimbisa mavambo uye yeshoko Russian maitiro.

Usingafi chisikwa mugadziri

Modern womukadzi wenguvo rinongova zvisinganzwisiswi pasina kwezvokufuka uye seksikäs penzura siketi. Zvichakadai, nyaya yacho zvisikwa anodzokera pakutanga kwezana remakore rechimakumi maviri. "Mwoyo miviri yubkayubka" gore - kuti kana kumumvuri akasikwa. Pol Puare akaitumidza kuti nzira nokuti kuti yakamanikana mupendero zvaikanganisa kufamba, uye vakadzi dzakamanikidzwa mince, zvinofamba matanho diki. "Chirema siketi" akaumba hwaro kwete bedzi siluetti, "penzura", asi gore, yakakurumbira uye yakakurumbira siluetti kuti "njuzu" nokuti manheru uye muchato madhirezi.

Books P. Poiret

Against zvakafanorongwa uye yakaoma upenyu ezvinhu kuma1930 mugadziri anorega vatatu mabhuku ake: "Fashion uye Finance", "nekusweveredza paraiitwa" uye "Enda shure!". Vose zvavo, Chokwadi, vanomiririra memoir. Huru basa, verenga kuti - zvinofadza, munhu wose yaitevedzana usage, huru pamusoro pakanyorwa kunoshamisa nhoroondo remakore rechimakumi maviri .. Pol Puare aiva munhu aiva akanyanyisa uye multi-faceted, akakokwa kuva mudzidzisi panguva Sorbonne, uye dzemitambo dzimwe nguva akarayira kuti kusika zvokupfeka.

Ndichikanganwa guru fashoni mugadziri

Tiine 20-ies wekupedzisira remakore, munhu capricious nefashoni vakatanga vanosangana nokuchinja, kukanganisa ino, uye kusagadzikana kwezvematongerwe enyika, hondo. Munhoroondo zvose zvakasikwa, uye mamwe mazita inotsiviwa nevamwe. Saka pamwe Paul Poiret. Kunyanya muvanhu vakwikwidzi racho rinotaurwa hapana zvishoma pane mukuru Koko Shanel. Akagadzira vaisagona ajairane kuchinja nyika nokukurumidza zvakadaro, somugumisiro kwaakanyaradzwa adzingwa fashoni Olympus. Pashure 1925 akanga vava kuda urombo uye rakamanikidzwa kutengesa Studio kwake muunganidzwa emifananidzo nezvimwe unyanzvi zvinhu. Akafa muurombo uye yokukanganwa muna 1944. Uye chete gumi nehafu vateereri kamwe zvakare akayeuka zita - Pol Puare. Yokunyora nokudhirowa uye hwakawanda huripo makopi hembe yemunyori akafumurwa wake aimbova mudzimai. Time akaita chimwe mamwe kumativi, uye, pashure pokunge hondo inotyisa, vanhu vanoda mumwe vangosiyiwa, inopenya, rusingadzorwi runako.

Muna 2005, kubva pachake kuunganidzwa wake nevana Poiret akaita vakatengesa zvinhu anopfuura mazana matanhatu akasiyana nguo. Vamwe mijenya Akaperekedzwa mapikicha kubva pachake archive mhuri. Chishamiso vakachengetedzwa zvinhu (kwete nguva dzose zvakanaka) akaenda yakakurumbira mamiziyamu kwenyika fashoni.

Pol Puare - Mambo Fashion remakore rechimakumi maviri, uyo akapa vakadzi rusununguko muna chaiyo uye wokufananidzira takasvinura. Akaita yechimurenga pavasikana 'yokuchinjira mbatya kuchikoro nzvimbo, kutanga zvinganaka kusiya corsets, refu chirukwa, uye edza pamusoro bhurukwa. Star tenzi Bright zvipo, zvinosuruvarisa chakapenya zvishoma, asi zita rake nokusingaperi akanyorwa munhoroondo.